Saidpur
Village is one of
Islamabad’s most accessible gateways to outdoor rock climbing in the Margalla
Hills. The climbing area combines limestone cliffs, forested hillsides and
scenic views with the convenience of being only a short drive from central
Islamabad.
For visitors
looking to experience rock climbing in Pakistan without travelling far from the
capital, Saidpur is an excellent starting point. The area is particularly
suitable for introductory climbing sessions, while the wider Saidpur climbing
zone provides access to several established crags for climbers with more
experience.
If you are new to outdoor climbing, see our Basic
Rock-Climbing Training for Beginners – Islamabad
Approach
Park in
Saidpur Village, then walk directly through the village and continue across the
stream onto a very wide path. After crossing the stream again, the valley
splits into two, with the main path following the right fork. On the hillside
directly in front of the split is Belvedere and further left is Safa Wall. God
Rock and Beetle’s Nest are just beyond it, on the left and right sides of the
main path, respectively. The crags are approximately a 15-minute walk from
Saidpur Village.
The Saidpur
Village climbing area consists of four main crags, each offering a different
climbing environment and experience:
- Belvedere
- Beetle's Nest
- God Rock
- Safa Wall
1-Belvedere
Belvedere is
one of the established climbing crags around Saidpur Village. Its limestone
climbing faces provide a range of routes for climbers to explore the Margalla
Hills climbing scene.
Belvedere
offers a useful range of climbing grades, including easier routes suitable for
climbers developing outdoor experience.
Routes at
Belvedere
1. Bushman, 6b+, 15m
Starts from a ledge a little higher
than the others. Holds are almost imaginary on the crux
2. Lizard, 6b, 18m
Looks like a crack but doesn’t climb
like one
3. Get up, stand up, 6a+, 18m
(2009 GF)
Passing the first bolt
provides a classic technical problem
4. For the girls, 6a, 20m
Boys can try it too if they’re good enough!
5. Monkey tower, 4c, 30m (2009
MP)
A fine introduction
to Margalla for new climbers
5.
Bon plaisir,
5c+, 30m
2-Beetle’s Nest Climbing Crag
Beetle’s
Nest is one of the established climbing crags in the Saidpur area of
Islamabad’s Margalla Hills. It offers a mixture of technical face climbing,
crack climbing and multi-pitch routes, making it particularly interesting for
climbers looking to progress beyond introductory climbing.
The crag
includes the four-pitch Teamwork route, as well as the challenging Maverick
variation on its third pitch. The routes provide a range of climbing
experiences, from easier climbing to demanding technical sections.
Routes at Beetle’s Nest
1. Hang Loose — 5b
Grade: 5b
Established: 2008
Two new routes have been established at this section of the crag.
2. Saxony Ramp — 5b
Grade: 5b
Established: 2008
The original bolts on this route have since been removed.
3. Teamwork — Multi-Pitch
Grade: 4a–6c+
Established: 2008 (GF, JS, MP)
Teamwork is a four-pitch route that combines slab, crack, face and
arête climbing. The individual pitches are:
Pitch 1 — 4a
Very easy slab climbing to a ring bolt. Continue right past the tree to the
ledge and bolt.
Pitch 2 — 5c
Follow the bolts right and climb up the crack. Step down to the right to reach
the belay.
Pitch 3 — 6b+, 25 m
From the tree, move right to the crack. Climb the crack and then move left on
jugs to the belay.
Pitch 4 — 6c+, 30 m
Pass the bulge on its right and follow the arête to a difficult crux just below
the top.
4. Maverick — 7b+, 25 m
Grade: 7b+
Length: 25 m
Type: Third-pitch variation
Protection: Top-rope only; not yet bolted
Maverick
provides a significantly harder alternative to the third pitch of Teamwork.
Powerful movements across the roof contrast with delicate face climbing above,
making it a demanding option for experienced climbers.
Descent
The
descent from Beetle’s Nest is usually made by abseiling (rappelling).
Two
ropes are useful for making a direct approximately 40-metre abseil from the
Pitch 2 belay.
Climbing
Level
Beetle’s
Nest offers climbing for different ability levels, but the upper grades and
multi-pitch routes require appropriate experience, technical skills and
equipment.
Climbers
should verify the current condition of bolts, anchors and route protection
before climbing, as climbing hardware and route conditions can change over time.
Important:
Route grades, protection and access information should be confirmed on-site
with experienced local climbers or guides before attempting a route.
3-God Rock
God Rock is
a steep limestone crag known for its challenging climbing. The crag includes
overhanging sections and technical sport-climbing routes, making it more
suitable for intermediate and advanced climbers.
God Rock
adds a more challenging dimension to the Saidpur climbing area and is an
excellent option for experienced climbers seeking steeper terrain.
Routes
at God Rock
1.
** Blame me, 6c, 25m (2010 JA)
2.
* Guilty as charged, 7b, 25m (2010 JJ) Starts up Blame
Me
3.
*** Blame God, 6b+, 20m (2010 JA)
The
clean arête left of Blame God will make a fantastic route one day, at a grade
of at least 8b.
4-Safa Wall
Safa Wall is
the fourth established climbing crag in the Saidpur Village area. It forms part
of the local network of limestone climbing walls and provides another option
for climbers exploring the Margalla Hills.
Route
selection at Safa Wall should be based on current route information, climbing
ability and the condition of the rock and protection.
For details
about other rock-climbing crags in Islamabad read Rock
Climbing in Islamabad, Complete Guide of Crags and Pitches
Frequently
Asked Questions
Is there
rock climbing in Saidpur Village?
Yes. Saidpur Village provides access to established climbing crags in the
Margalla Hills, including Belvedere, Beetle's Nest, God Rock and Safa Wall.
How many
climbing crags are in Saidpur Village?
The Saidpur Village climbing area has four main crags: Belvedere, Beetle's
Nest, God Rock and Safa Wall.
How far
are the climbing crags from Saidpur Village?
The climbing crags are approximately a 15-minute walk from Saidpur Village,
depending on the route and exact crag.
Is
Beetle's Nest suitable for multi-pitch climbing?
Yes. Beetle's Nest includes the documented four-pitch Teamwork route, with
pitches ranging from 4a to 6c+.
What
grade is Maverick at Beetle's Nest?
Maverick is documented as a 7b+ third-pitch variation with an approximate
length of 25 metres.
Is God
Rock suitable for beginners?
God Rock is better suited to intermediate and experienced climbers because of
its steeper and more technical climbing. Current climbing documentation also
warns about loose rock in the lower sections.
Can
beginners climb at Saidpur Village?
Yes, beginners can experience climbing in the area with suitable routes,
equipment and qualified supervision.
