Saidpur Village is one of Islamabad’s most accessible
gateways to outdoor rock climbing in the Margalla Hills. The climbing area
combines limestone cliffs, forested hillsides and scenic views with the
convenience of being only a short drive from central Islamabad.
For visitors looking to experience rock climbing in Pakistan
without travelling far from the capital, Saidpur is an excellent starting
point. The area is particularly suitable for introductory climbing sessions,
while the wider Saidpur climbing zone provides access to several established
crags for climbers with more experience.
If you are Beginner check out our Basic
Rock-Climbing Training for Beginners – Islamabad
Approach
Park in Saidpur Village, then walk directly through the
village and continue across the stream onto a very wide path. After crossing
the stream again, the valley splits into two, with the main path following the
right fork. On the hillside directly in front of the split is Belvedere and
further left is Safa Wall. God Rock and Beetle’s Nest are just beyond it, on
the left and right sides of the main path, respectively. The crags are
approximately a 15-minute walk from Saidpur Village.
The Saidpur Village climbing area consists of four main
crags, each offering a different climbing environment and experience:
- Belvedere
- Beetle's
Nest
- God
Rock
- Safa
Wall
1-Belvedere
Belvedere is one of the established climbing crags around
Saidpur Village. Its limestone climbing faces provide a range of routes for
climbers to explore the Margalla Hills climbing scene.
Belvedere offers a useful range of climbing grades,
including easier routes suitable for climbers developing outdoor experience.
Routes at Belvedere
1. Bushman,
6b+, 15m
Starts from
a ledge a little higher than the others. Holds are almost imaginary on the crux
2. Lizard,
6b, 18m
Looks like
a crack but doesn’t climb like one
3. Get up,
stand up, 6a+, 18m (2009 GF)
Passing the first bolt provides a classic technical problem
4. For
the girls, 6a, 20m
Boys can try it too if they’re good
enough!
5. Monkey
tower, 4c, 30m (2009 MP)
A fine introduction to Margalla for new climbers
6. Bon
plaisir, 5c+, 30m
2-Beetle’s Nest Climbing Crag
Beetle’s Nest is one of the established climbing crags in
the Saidpur area of Islamabad’s Margalla Hills. It offers a mixture of
technical face climbing, crack climbing and multi-pitch routes, making it
particularly interesting for climbers looking to progress beyond introductory
climbing.
The crag includes the four-pitch Teamwork route, as well as
the challenging Maverick variation on its third pitch. The routes provide a
range of climbing experiences, from easier climbing to demanding technical
sections.
Routes at Beetle’s Nest
1. Hang Loose — 5b
Grade: 5b
Established: 2008
Two new routes have been established
at this section of the crag.
2. Saxony Ramp — 5b
Grade: 5b
Established: 2008
The original bolts on this route
have since been removed.
3. Teamwork — Multi-Pitch
Grade: 4a–6c+
Established: 2008 (GF, JS, MP)
Teamwork is a four-pitch route that
combines slab, crack, face and arête climbing. The individual pitches are:
Pitch 1 — 4a
Very easy slab climbing to a ring bolt. Continue right past the tree to the
ledge and bolt.
Pitch 2 — 5c
Follow the bolts right and climb up the crack. Step down to the right to reach
the belay.
Pitch 3 — 6b+, 25 m
From the tree, move right to the crack. Climb the crack and then move left on
jugs to the belay.
Pitch 4 — 6c+, 30 m
Pass the bulge on its right and follow the arête to a difficult crux just below
the top.
4. Maverick — 7b+, 25 m
Grade: 7b+
Length: 25 m
Type: Third-pitch variation
Protection: Top-rope only; not yet bolted
Maverick provides a significantly
harder alternative to the third pitch of Teamwork. Powerful movements across
the roof contrast with delicate face climbing above, making it a demanding
option for experienced climbers.
Descent
The descent from Beetle’s Nest is
usually made by abseiling (rappelling).
Two ropes are useful for making a
direct approximately 40-metre abseil from the Pitch 2 belay.
Climbing Level
Beetle’s Nest offers climbing for
different ability levels, but the upper grades and multi-pitch routes require
appropriate experience, technical skills and equipment.
Climbers should verify the
current condition of bolts, anchors and route protection before climbing, as
climbing hardware and route conditions can change over time.
Important: Route grades,
protection and access information should be confirmed on-site with experienced
local climbers or guides before attempting a route.
3-God Rock
God Rock is a steep limestone crag known for its challenging
climbing. The crag includes overhanging sections and technical sport-climbing
routes, making it more suitable for intermediate and advanced climbers.
God Rock adds a more challenging dimension to the Saidpur
climbing area and is an excellent option for experienced climbers seeking
steeper terrain.
Routes at God Rock
1.
** Blame me, 6c, 25m (2010 JA)
2.
* Guilty as charged, 7b, 25m (2010 JJ) Starts up Blame
Me
3. *** Blame
God, 6b+, 20m (2010 JA)
The clean arête left of Blame God will make a
fantastic route one day, at a grade of at least 8b.
4-Safa Wall
Safa Wall is the fourth established climbing crag in the
Saidpur Village area. It forms part of the local network of limestone climbing
walls and provides another option for climbers exploring the Margalla Hills.
Route selection at Safa Wall should be based on current
route information, climbing ability and the condition of the rock and
protection.
For details about other rock-climbing crags in Islamabad
read Rock
Climbing in Islamabad, Complete Guide of Crags and Pitches
Frequently Asked Questions
Is there rock climbing in Saidpur Village?
Yes. Saidpur Village provides access to established climbing crags in the
Margalla Hills, including Belvedere, Beetle's Nest, God Rock and Safa Wall.
How many climbing crags are in Saidpur Village?
The Saidpur Village climbing area has four main crags: Belvedere, Beetle's
Nest, God Rock and Safa Wall.
How far are the climbing crags from Saidpur Village?
The climbing crags are approximately a 15-minute walk from Saidpur Village,
depending on the route and exact crag.
Is Beetle's Nest suitable for multi-pitch climbing?
Yes. Beetle's Nest includes the documented four-pitch Teamwork route, with
pitches ranging from 4a to 6c+.
What grade is Maverick at Beetle's Nest?
Maverick is documented as a 7b+ third-pitch variation with an approximate
length of 25 metres.
Is God Rock suitable for beginners?
God Rock is better suited to intermediate and experienced climbers because of
its steeper and more technical climbing. Current climbing documentation also
warns about loose rock in the lower sections.
Can beginners climb at Saidpur Village?
Yes, beginners can experience climbing in the area with suitable routes,
equipment and qualified supervision.
